Hengyijia 25mm F1.8 (Black) HD.MC Manual Lens for SONY E-mount NEX ILCE Camera

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Flare is also very well suppressed, no doubt thanks to good lens barrel design as well as the well established Super EBC coating technology. I haven't really "tested" the bokeh, mainly because that's pretty low on my considerations in lens performance, but what I've seen through the finder has been smooth, with the 12 blade aperture providing those round blobs so many people adore, even when this lens is wide open. The only complaint I have is the focus scale, which is sufficiently at odds with the reality through the EVF to make scale/zone focus a non-starter. The barrel contains feet and metre distance engravings, progressing (in feet) from 0.6, 1, 2, 5, 16 and infinity markings. Subjects at approximately 5ft - pin sharp at f1.8 though the EVF - showed closer to the 16 ft than 5 ft markings, and the void between the two makes hyperfocal shooting a gamble. It's possible, but you'd have to work out your own sweet spot and most users will confirm distance through the viewfinder. I assume the discrepancy is the result of the same lens being produced for a variety of sensor formats.

I noticed that aperture ring is quite off. I did a very simple non-scientific test — I set the camera on ISO 200, lens on f/2 and tuned the exposition compensation so that shutter speed falls on 1/100s. Then I switched lens to f/4, f/8 and f/16 to see what’s the shutter speed, expecting that it should go down by the factor of 4 (since I’m testing 2 stop differences). Results (sorry for the table look): | Aperture | f/2 | f/4 | f/8 | f/16 Apochromatic lenses have special lens elements (aspheric, extra-low dispersion etc) to minimize the problem, hence they usually cost more. Focusing ring is well dampened on the Discover lens. Focus throw is quite short (about one third of lens circumference) which makes manual focusing a bit challenging with larger apertures. On Hengyijia, dampening is a little bit looser which makes accidental misfocusing more frequent — sometimes I focused correctly, shot a picture and then at home I found out it’s far from focused correctly. I think that in the second between focusing and activating shutter I must have slightly altered the focus which in combination with very short focusing throw made a big difference in the photo sharpness.

Fujifilm Fujinon 23mm f/1.4 R LM WR Sample Photos

Finally, the metal bayonet mount is well made and the lens fits smoothly. There is absolutely no rotational play when the lens is mounted. I've got the Pergear 25mm 1.8 and I've been very satisfied with the image quality using it on my X-Pro3. I was actually surprised at how sharp it was compared to some of the other manual lenses I've tried (e.g. Pergear 50mm 1.8, Meike 35mm 1.7) even at 1.8. Unfortunately I can't compare to the 7artisans though since I don't own that one. I think it fits well design-wise with the Fuji aesthetics. With my Fuji XT-10 it forms a small and well balanced combo. Handling and build quality Focusing ring

So for me - unless the 8cm gain in Dof with a headshot is a dealbreaker - my advice is get out your old film camera kit and have a go with the old technology before you pay up for a new lens ------- unless the vignetting, field edge distortion and "toy camera" look is what you want - but then, just add an online filter in post-processing and have a much more controlled version of the same. The kit lens from either Lumix or Zuiko is excellent at wide to mid range - it only falls off in resolution near the 40mm zone. The kit has AF, anti-shake mechanics, signals distortion and vignetting correction to the camera body (and to programmes such as DXO if you shoot in RAW). So why buy a manual lens then?Focusing ring has a distance scale to aid in zone focusing. But focusing is probably misaligned in some way and the distance scale is off — infinity is around 6 meters mark on the distance scale. Anything after that focuses “after infinity” — i.e. nothing is in focus.